restaurants

At first sight Santiago's eating scene appears to be dominated by uninviting fast food outlets serving hot dogs and fried beef sandwiches. In truth, however, there's an enormous choice of restaurants , from the humble to the outstanding, taking in many different types of cuisine including Asian, Arabic, Spanish, Peruvian, French and Italian. Most eateries tend to be concentrated in specific areas like Bellavista, Providencia and calle Lastarria (next to Cerro Santa Lucía). The majority are quite expensive, except at lunchtime when many places offer a good-value fixed-price menú del día or menú ejecutivo . For this reason a lot of restaurants tend to be packed out at lunchtime but fairly quiet (sometimes empty) in the evening, at least during the week.

Here you find a small selection:

A Pinch of Pancho , General del Canto 45, near Manuel Montt metro. Attentive staff, a mellow atmosphere and excellent North American dishes, including New England chowder, BBQ spare ribs, Cajun chicken and desserts to die for.

Bar de la Unión , Nueva York 11, near to the Bolsa. Old wooden floors, shelves of dusty wine bottles and animated, garrulous old men make this a really atmospheric place to come for a drink or a meal. The food is tasty (lots of fish) and good value, and the servings are generous. Closed Sun afternoon.

Camino Real (tel 232 3381; take a taxi) also known as the Enoteca, on Cerro San Cristóbal. A really special place to come for a splurge, offering magical views, especially at night when the city lights spread out below like a blanket of diamonds. The menu is imaginative, featuring dishes like sea bass in champagne sauce with fetuccini, and there's an excellent choice of wine.

Chez Henry , south side of Plaza de Armas. Large delicatessen serving good ready-made hot and cold meals to take away, as well as fresh fruit, ice cream and other goodies. Closed Sun.

Cocoa , Lastarria 297 (tel 632 1272). Tiny Peruvian restaurant in a painted wooden building off a pretty courtyard. The food is expensive but excellent, with the sort of complex seasonings and mixtures of ingredients you just don't get in Chilean food. Try the Costa Verde (deep-fried prawns and chicken in BBQ sauce) or filete a la mantequilla de ají peruano (fillet steak with chilli butter sauce). Great pisco sours, too. Closed Sat lunch and Sun afternoon.

Confitería Torres , corner of Alameda and Dieciocho, near Los Héroes (tel 698 6220). Open since 1879, this is the oldest restaurant in Santiago; don't come here for the food (overpriced meat and fish) but for the dark, wood-panelled walls, the old, tarnished mirrors, the sagging chairs and the romantic atmosphere. At weekends there's live tango from around 10.30pm. Closed Sun.

Dominó , 1016 Agustinas (near the Plaza de Armas). The most popular sandwich bar in Santiago, distinguished by its fresh, good-quality fillings. Closed Sun.

Don Simón , Pío Nono 262. Cheapest choice in Bellavista, offering cazuela for an amazing CH$900. All the other favourites are here as well, like pollo con papas fritas (chicken and chips), and lomo a lo pobre (steak and egg); prices go up after 8pm. Closed Sun afternoon.

Donde Agusto , Mercado Central. Long-established and eternally popular seafood restaurant in the middle of the Mercado Central - Sunday lunch here is a real occasion, with all the bustle and atmosphere of a packed Parisian brasserie.

El Huerto , Orrego Luco 054, Providencia. The best veggie restaurant in Santiago, with a mouth-watering range of seasonal dishes; its Greek salad and gazpacho are especially recommended in summer. Closed Sun.

El Naturista , Moneda 846, near Estado. The original pioneer of vegetarian food in Santiago, this large, inexpensive restaurant attracts a huge, frenetic crowd at lunchtime; if there's no room, try the stand-up bar on the ground floor. Closed Sat afternoon and Sun.

El Villorio , San Antonio 676, north of Santo Domingo. Large restaurant serving excellent carnes asadas ; if you're really hungry go for La Kilo y Medio, one and a half kilos of meat on a plate. There's a rather cheesy live music and dance show at weekends, from 11pm. Closed Sun afternoon.

Eladio , Pío Nono 241, Bellavista. One of the best places in the city for a big hearty steak. Friendly, relaxed and eternally popular. Closed Sun afternoon.

Food Garden , in galería on Huérfanos between Estado and San Antonio. Burgers, pizzas and other plastic food from a collection of outlets around a central eating area. Closed Sun.

Fra Diavola , París 836, near Residencial Londres. Busy canteen sort of place offering superb-value fixed-price lunches with a daily-changing menu (usually Italian-influenced). Closed Sat and Sun.

Gatopardo , Lastarria 192, opposite Biógrafo cinema. Very classy restaurant with a beautiful interior featuring lots of modern art and an atrium supported by eight tree trunks from the south of Chile. Good, imaginatively prepared food including a range of Bolivian specialities. Live jazz at weekends in winter. Closed Sat lunch and Sun.

Izakaya Yoko , Merced 456, near corner with Mosqueto. Japanese canteen offering good, authentic food at unbeatable prices; try one of their enormous bowls of soup with noodles, or the superb sushi that melts in your mouth. Closed Sun.

Kintaro , Monjitas 460. Another Japanese gem, with great-value fixed-price lunches. If you want to choose from the menu, they've got a bookful of photos to help you out. Closed Sun.

La Bodeguita de Julio , Antonia López de Bello 0108, at corner with Constitución. Down-to-earth Cuban restaurant with live music and a real party atmosphere every Friday and Saturday night. Tues-Sat from 7pm.

La Divina Comedia , Purísima 215. Friendly, reasonably priced Italian restaurant, extravagantly decorated with frescoes corresponding to whichever room you're in: Hell, Heaven or Purgatory. The salmon carpaccio is well worth a try. Closed Sun.

La Esquina al Jerez , Mallinkrodt 102. Giant hanging hams and posters of bullfighters make an evocative backdrop for some excellent Spanish food, including pulpo a la gallega (octopus) and cordero asado (roast lamb). Order the plate of mixed tapas (chorizo, tortilla, garlic mushrooms, serrano ham and cheese) and you won't have room for anything else. Closed Sun pm.

Les Assassins , Merced 297, near corner of Lastarria (tel 638 4280). Small, informal restaurant with lots of charm, serving traditional French food at reasonable prices. Very popular, so you'd be wise to reserve at weekends. Closed Sun.

Mikado , Francisco Bilbao 1933 (tel 225 2947; take a taxi). Upmarket Japanese restaurant specializing in teppanyaki. Watch the food being chopped and sliced in front of you at lightning speed, and cooked on a hotplate at your table, usually with a bit of juggling thrown in for good measure. Expect to shell out for the experience. Mon-Sat from 7pm.

Nam San Jung , Santa Rosa 24, near the Alameda. Humble Korean restaurant serving succulent, marinated meat dishes which slowly cook in front of you on a small gas stove at your table. Presided over by the delightful Sra Lee who, with a little prompting, will sing you Korean songs on her karaoke machine.

Parillón , Merced 734, between Mac Iver and San Antonio. One of a dying breed of dusty old bar-restaurants serving really traditional Chilean food - riñon al jerez (kidneys in sherry sauce), arrollado (rolled pork), lengua maya (tongue with mayonnaise) and guatitas (tripe). No frills but plenty of atmosphere. Closed Sun.

Puro Chile , Maipú 636, between Compañía and Huérfanos, three blocks east of Quinta Normal. Really funky restaurant full of hip, good-looking types. It's in an old building with a modern, very imaginative interior divided into three sections: a bar for drinking, a restaurant, and a ceviche bar. At weekends they lay out a range of top-quality wines you can buy by the glass. Closed Sun.

Venezzia , Pío Nono 200. Once a favourite haunt of the poet Pablo Neruda, this old-fashioned local picada serves traditional Chilean dishes at low prices, with a friendly, family atmosphere